As consumers are more educated about ingredients and the environmental impact that their skincare and makeup products have, it’s all the more important for companies to keep up with ingredient technology in order to cater to a savvy market.
Some ingredients in particular, have a bad rep amongst consumers for dehydrating skin, polluting the environment or being synthetic. One of the widely-debated ingredients is ethanol and the belief that it would dry out the skin and hair. In an earlier article, the omission of use of alcohol was also discussed when formulating for the expanding Halal beauty industry.
In Europe, the usage of alcohol in new fragrance launches has dropped from 78% in 2017 to 62% in 2021.
What are the alternatives for alcohol then?
Products like fragrances often rely on the use of alcohol to solubilize oil in water. An example would be the use of fragrances (which are oil-based) in water for various concentrations of perfume like eau fraiche, eau de toilette, and eau de parfum. Alcohol is usually the solubilizer in this case but there are alternative solubilizers that can be used based on the end product you are trying to create.
Here is a guide to synthetic and natural solubilizers for cosmetic formulating.
Solubilisant LRI
Solubilisant LRI is a surfactant blend which has been designed as a substitute for alcohol in cosmetic and fragrance products. It’s compatible with preservatives and has excellent stability. As a cosmetic product, it minimizes stickiness, offers gentle cleansing properties while being mild enough for hypoallergenic formulations.
Only a low concentration of Solubilisant LRI is required to create a micro-emulsion when compared to its competitors. Various properties of Solubilisant LRI also make it ideal for use in different formulations—its clarity makes it suitable for fragrances unlike other solubilizers which can make the solution cloudy. It is also suitable for use in cleansers, especially those that require gentle care like the eye area.
TW 726B – Alcohol Free Fragrance
As mentioned before, Solubilisant LRI is an excellent replacement for the use of alcohol as a solubilizer in fragrances. This alcohol free fragrance is an ideal formulation for the growing Middle Eastern markets, as well as individuals who seek out Halal beauty products.
SCT0872B-1 SCW – Aquacleanser
Solubilisant LRI can be offered to Hydrofacteur HC, a moisturizing active, along with Fucosorb WP (anti-inflammatory), and Covabsorb DS (a color protector) to form a micellar solution that is gentle enough for use on the eye area. It’s also suitable for dry and sensitive skin.
SCT4137 SCW – Aqua Charcoal Gel Cleanser
Solubilisant LRI is added to Vegetable Charcoal and Covacryl MV60 to create a smooth and refreshing gel cleanser that rinses away impurities. Fucosorb WP is also included in the formula for additional hydration and its anti-inflammatory properties
SCT 1429 SCW – Cleansing Milk Shake
This bi-phase cleansing solution contains a micellar phase (which contains Solubilisant LRI) as well as a milk solution to help cleanse skin without drying it out. Hydrofacteur HC maintains skin hydration while Covabsorb prevents the color of the dye from fading.
Natpure Sol SL
Natpure Sol SL is 100% naturally derived, making it the ideal solubilizers for consumers who want natural skincare and makeup products. Natpure Sol SL comes in a liquid preprocessed solution which contains sucrose esters, making it easy to formulate at room temperature. It is also preservative free.
As a solubilizer, it is able to solubilize different lipophilic substances and as an emulsifier, Natpure Sol SL is able to achieve a range of textures from fluid to thick.
SCT2258 – Charcoal Exfoliating Modeling Clay
Covarine Charcoal WN9794 gives this gentle soap its dark appearance and clarifying properties. The blend of Kaolin and Amidon De Mais MST both have high absorption properties, and gives it the clay-like texture. Natpure Feel-M Eco nourishes skin and prevents dryness after cleansing.
Sherbet Mask Scrub
This mask transforms from oil to gel when it comes in contact with water thanks to thickener Covagel. The color of this mask scrub is attributed to Natpure Xfine Carrot BC 314 and the color is stable thanks to Sensisorb CF+.
Natural Moisturizing Lotion
This lotion may feel lightweight but it is also nourishing for the skin. It contains three key ingredients — Natpure Cellgum Plus, a natural thickener derived from tree fibers co-processed with cellulose, provides a melting sensation on the skin upon application. Natpure Sol SL is then combined with Natpure Feel-M Eco, to give a light emolliency to the lotion.
SCT6251 OC – Natural Refreshing Mouthwash
This alcohol-free mouthwash has good transparency and utilizes Natpure Sol SL to solubilize menthol and essential oils for a refreshing mouthfeel after use.
Natpure Sol Crystal
Natpure Sol Crystal is a patented solubilizer that’s designed to be formulated with natural cosmetics and fragrances. It has a low viscosity and only a low percentage is required to create stable and transparent micro-emulsions. When used in cosmetics, it has a high naturality (91% natural) with cleansing properties.
It is also an ingredient that is easily biodegradable and developed to be non-toxic to the environment. Natpure Sol Crystal can be used alongside ethanol to create fragrances that are lower in alcohol content.
SCT6304 PC – Natural Mosquito Repellent
This DEET-free mosquito repellent helps to keep insects away with a blend of 10 essential oils including citronella. The final formulation is suitable for babies, kids and those with sensitive skin. Natpure Sol Crystal acts as a solubilizer to solubilize citronella oil and Fucosorb WP, an extract derived from red and brown algae, prized for its anti-inflammatory properties.
SCT 2255 SCW – Micellar Cleansing Water
At once a cleanser and a skin hydrator, this micellar solution is able to clean off makeup gently, without drying the skin out. Natpure Sol Crystal rids skin of impurities and makeup, while Hydrofacteur HC is a natural substitute for NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factors) to retain skin’s hydration levels.
SCT 2263 PC – Luminous Natural Shower Oil
This shower oil is formulated with Natpure Feel-M Eco. The bright color of the shower oil comes from Natpure Col Yellow LC 112, which is then protected with Sensisorb CF+ to maintain its vibrancy.
Contact us to find out in-depth how the use of our solubilizers can help formulate the ideal product for your brand. Reach out to us to learn more about our portfolio of solubilizers.
