In February 2025, Sensient Beauty acquired BIOLIE, a French company recognized for its expertise in white biotechnology. The acquisition reinforces Sensient’s commitment to developing sustainable, high-performance cosmetic ingredients through advanced extraction technologies and responsible sourcing.
Was ist Weiße Biotechnologie?
White biotechnology, sometimes referred to as industrial biotechnology, focuses on applying biological processes for industrial use. Unlike red biotechnology, which relates to medicine, green to agriculture, or blue to marine applications, white biotechnology is dedicated to industries such as cosmetics, food, and textiles. It uses natural methods such as enzymes, fermentation, or microorganisms to extract or produce valuable compounds.
For BIOLIE, this means using enzymatic extraction to gently break down plant cell walls with enzyme blends, unlocking pigments, oils, and bioactives without the use of solvents. The process is efficient, sustainable, and a strong match for the beauty sector’s increasing demand for clean, upcycled, and high-performance ingredients.
Saubere enzymatische Extraktionstechnologie
Biolie’s patented enzymatic extraction method stands out from conventional processes. Instead of solvents or harsh techniques, it uses tailored enzyme cocktails to gently break down plant cell walls and release valuable actives. This clean, aqueous method preserves delicate compounds such as polyphenols and pigments while operating as a true one-step biorefinery. Nothing goes to waste: byproducts from the food industry, silviculture, and plant breeding are transformed into ingredients with proven efficacy.
Französische Beschaffung und Upcycling
BIOLIE’s philosophy is rooted in French sourcing and a strong upcycling ethos. Most raw materials are cultivated in France, and many are derived from byproducts of juice, puree, or seed processing. This approach ensures traceability and supports local agriculture while reducing waste through circular economy practices.
Sensizyme™: Natürliche Extrakte mit inhärenter Farbe
At the center of BIOLIE’s innovation is the Sensizyme™ range, a collection of natural active oils that combine cosmetic efficacy with inherent vivid color. Each oil is created by infusing sunflower seed oil with botanical extracts through BIOLIE’s enzymatic process, unlocking both the pigment and the bioactive potential of the source material.
The Sensizyme™ portfolio spans a spectrum of shades, each with unique origins and benefits. Sensizyme™ Ruby and Garnet, extracted from alkanna root, deliver deep red tones and powerful antioxidant activity, with Garnet measuring up to 1777 µmol TE/100 g—well above traditional oils like argan or rosehip. Sensizyme™ Rhodonite, derived from capsicum fruit, provides a bold red hue and proven free radical scavenging effects. Sensizyme™ Amber and Carnelian, sourced from tomato and carrot extracts, create warm orange oils with protective antioxidant capacity. Sensizyme™ Heliodor, extracted from turmeric, offers a golden-yellow hue with exceptionally high antioxidant activity of 5944 µmol TE/100 g. Finally, Sensizyme™ Jade, also from capsicum, contributes a natural green tint paired with antioxidative benefits.
These multifunctional oils open up a wide variety of formulation opportunities. In skincare, they can be incorporated into serums, creams, and toners to deliver antioxidant protection with a subtle natural tint. In makeup, their inherent color makes them ideal for lip tints, balms, and stick blushes as vegan alternatives to carmine, which is derived from cochineal insects. Their stability under light and heat allows them to perform in sun care formats, from tinted balms to solid sunscreen sticks. They also find applications in hair and body oils, where they bring both sensory appeal and bioactivity.
Sensizyme™ represents how biotechnology can elevate natural ingredients. By merging performance, sustainability, and visual impact, it allows formulators new possibilities and brands a way to connect with consumers seeking innovation and sustainability.
Ein komplettes Portfolio zur Unterstützung der Formulierung
While Sensizyme™ is BIOLIE’s flagship, its wider portfolio provides additional tools for formulators. Paradisyl, a grapefruit extract, soothes skin and enhances SPF protection, making it a suitable ingredient for day creams, moisturizers, and sunscreen formulations.
BIOLIE’s active waters, derived from cucumber, zucchini, and pear, are designed to replace standard formulation water. They provide additional advantages such as antioxidant properties, prebiotic support, and anti-ageing benefits. This makes them especially suitable for incorporating into toners, cleansing waters, foaming cleansers, and lightweight serums.
Its vegetable oils—including apricot kernel, chicory seed, beech seed, and Vosgian fir seed oils—deliver targeted care depending on the plant source. Rich in essential fatty acids and polyphenols, they are suited for products like facial oils, body oils, and hair treatments, where they provide intense hydration, repair, and protective functions along with their natural fragrances.
Ein neues Kapitel mit Sensient
By bringing BIOLIE into the Sensient family, the company extends its leadership in sustainable ingredient innovation. Sensizyme™ embodies the promise of white biotechnology, while BIOLIE’s broader portfolio offers formulators the flexibility to design products that are effective, visually striking, and environmentally responsible. Together, Sensient and BIOLIE are reshaping the future of cosmetic formulation—where biotechnology, sustainability, and performance can work in harmony.
Contact us to learn more about BIOLIE by Sensient and its enzymatic extraction expertise.
